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Hydrodynamic processes on beach: Wave breaking, up-rush, and backwash. (English) Zbl 1419.76480
Summary: This paper presents two-dimensional numerical predictions of wave breaking, up-rush, and backwash in inner surf and swash zones and analyzes the hydrodynamic processes involved. In the numerical simulations, the Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations, a non-linear $$k-\epsilon$$ turbulence closure, and a piecewise linear interface construction volume of fluid (PLIC-VOF) method are employed. On the basis of a series of model calibration using experimental data, plunging and spilling breakers are simulated at different wave parameters and slope angles. The numerical results indicate that there are non-linear interactions between hydrodynamic characteristics in surf zones such as wave breaking heights and those in swash zones such as up-rush heights, and the breaker type plays an important role in hydrodynamic processes in the two zones.

##### MSC:
 76M20 Finite difference methods applied to problems in fluid mechanics 76F60 $$k$$-$$\varepsilon$$ modeling in turbulence 86A05 Hydrology, hydrography, oceanography
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