Hydrodynamic processes on beach: Wave breaking, up-rush, and backwash.

*(English)*Zbl 1419.76480Summary: This paper presents two-dimensional numerical predictions of wave breaking, up-rush, and backwash in inner surf and swash zones and analyzes the hydrodynamic processes involved. In the numerical simulations, the Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations, a non-linear \(k-\epsilon \) turbulence closure, and a piecewise linear interface construction volume of fluid (PLIC-VOF) method are employed. On the basis of a series of model calibration using experimental data, plunging and spilling breakers are simulated at different wave parameters and slope angles. The numerical results indicate that there are non-linear interactions between hydrodynamic characteristics in surf zones such as wave breaking heights and those in swash zones such as up-rush heights, and the breaker type plays an important role in hydrodynamic processes in the two zones.

##### MSC:

76M20 | Finite difference methods applied to problems in fluid mechanics |

76F60 | \(k\)-\(\varepsilon\) modeling in turbulence |

86A05 | Hydrology, hydrography, oceanography |

##### Keywords:

swash zone; inner surf zone; RANS equations; non-linear \(k-\epsilon \) turbulence closure; PLIC-VOF method; plunging breaker; spilling breaker
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\textit{C. B. Jiang} et al., Commun. Nonlinear Sci. Numer. Simul. 16, No. 8, 3126--3139 (2011; Zbl 1419.76480)

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