×

zbMATH — the first resource for mathematics

Hydrodynamic processes on beach: Wave breaking, up-rush, and backwash. (English) Zbl 1419.76480
Summary: This paper presents two-dimensional numerical predictions of wave breaking, up-rush, and backwash in inner surf and swash zones and analyzes the hydrodynamic processes involved. In the numerical simulations, the Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations, a non-linear \(k-\epsilon \) turbulence closure, and a piecewise linear interface construction volume of fluid (PLIC-VOF) method are employed. On the basis of a series of model calibration using experimental data, plunging and spilling breakers are simulated at different wave parameters and slope angles. The numerical results indicate that there are non-linear interactions between hydrodynamic characteristics in surf zones such as wave breaking heights and those in swash zones such as up-rush heights, and the breaker type plays an important role in hydrodynamic processes in the two zones.

MSC:
76M20 Finite difference methods applied to problems in fluid mechanics
76F60 \(k\)-\(\varepsilon\) modeling in turbulence
86A05 Hydrology, hydrography, oceanography
PDF BibTeX XML Cite
Full Text: DOI
References:
[1] Anderson JD. Computational fluid dynamics. The basics with applications. Department of Aerospace Engineering, University of Maryland; 1995.
[2] Bakhtyar, R.; Barry, D.A.; Yeganeh-Bakhtiary, A., Numerical simulation of surf – swash zone motions and turbulent flow, Adv water resour, 32, 250-263, (2009)
[3] Bakhtyar, R.; Yeganeh-Bakhtiary, A.; Ghaheri, A., Application of neuro-fuzzy approach in prediction of runup in swash zone, Appl Ocean res, 30, 17-27, (2008)
[4] Bradford, S.F., Numerical simulation of surf zone dynamics, J waterway port coastal Ocean eng, 126, 1, 1-13, (2000)
[5] Brorsen, M.; Larsen, J., Source generation of nonlinear gravity waves with the boundary integral equation method, Coastal eng, 11, 93-213, (1987)
[6] Chen J, Jiang CB, Guo J, Liu HY. Study of hydrodynamic characteristics in the swash zone by PLIC-VOF Model. In: Proceedings of the 15th China ocean engineering conference; 2009. p. 545-552.
[7] Chen, J.; Jiang, C.B.; Hu, S.X.; Huang, W.W., Numerical study on the characteristics of flow field and wave propagation near submerged breakwater on slope, Acta oceanol sin, 29, 1, 88-99, (2010)
[8] Cheng, Y.Z.; Jiang, C.B.; Wang, Y.X., Coupled numerical model of wave interaction with porous medium, Ocean eng, 36, 952-959, (2009)
[9] Elfrink, B.; Baldock, T., Hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the swash zone: a review and perspectives, Coastal eng, 45, 149-167, (2002)
[10] Fuhrman, D.R.; Madsen, P.A., Simulation of nonlinear wave run-up with a high order Boussinesq model, Coastal eng, 55, 139-154, (2008)
[11] Guard, P.A.; Baldock, T.E., The influence of seaward boundary conditions on swash zone hydrodynamics, Coastal eng, 54, 321-331, (2007)
[12] Guza, R.T.; Thornton, E.B., Swash oscillations on a natural beach, J geophys res, 87, 483-491, (1982)
[13] Huang, Z.C.; Hsiao, S.C.; Hwung, H.H.; Chang, K.A., Turbulence and energy dissipations of surf-zone spilling breakers, Coastal eng, 56, 733-746, (2009)
[14] Iribarren CR, Nogales C. Protection des ports. In: Section II, communication 4, XVIIth international naval congress, Lisbon; 1949. p. 31-80.
[15] Karambas, T.V., Prediction of sediment transport in the swash zone by using a nonlinear wave model, Cont shelf res, 26, 599-609, (2006)
[16] Landahl MT, Christensen EM. Turbulence and random processes in fluid mechanics. 2nd ed. Cambridge; 1992.
[17] Larson, M.; Kubota, S.; Erikson, L., Swash-zone sediment transport and foreshore evolution: field experiments and mathematical modeling, Marine geol, 212, 1-4, 61-80, (2004)
[18] Liu, C.; Liu, X.P.; Jiang, C.B., Numerical simulation of wave field near submerged bars by PLIC-VOF model, China Ocean eng, 19, 3, 509-518, (2005)
[19] Lin, P.; Liu, P.L.-F., A numerical study of breaking waves in the surf zone, J fluid mech, 359, 239-264, (1998) · Zbl 0916.76009
[20] Longo, S.; Petti, M.; Losada, I.J., Turbulence in the surf and swash zones: a review, Coastal eng, 45, 129-147, (2002)
[21] Park, J.C.; Kim, M.H.; Miyata, H., Fully non-linear free-surface simulations by a 3D viscous numerical wave tank, Int J numer methods fluids, 29, 6, 685-703, (1999) · Zbl 0947.76063
[22] Puleo, J.A., Fluid acceleration effects on suspended sediment transport in the swash zone, J geophys res, 108, C11, 3350, (2003)
[23] Puleo, J.A.; Farhadzadeh, A.; Kobayashi, N., Numerical simulation of swash zone fluid accelerations, J geophys res, 112, C07007, (2007)
[24] Shanehsazzadeh, A.; Holmes, P., Field investigation on the results of non-linear shallow water equations in the swash zone, Coastal eng, 54, 835-855, (2007)
[25] Shen, M.C.; Meyer, R.E., Climb of a bore on a beach 3: run-up, J fluid mech, 16, 11-325, (1963)
[26] Shin, S.; Cox, D., Laboratory observations of inner surf and swash-zone hydrodynamics on a steep slope, Cont shelf res, 26, 561-573, (2006)
[27] Shih, T.H.; Zhu, J.; Lumley, J.L., Calculation of wall-bounded complex flows and free shear flows, Int J numer methods fluids, 23, 11, 1133-1144, (1996) · Zbl 0886.76034
[28] Rodi, W., Turbulence models and their application in hydraulics: a state of the art review, (1980), International Association for Hydraulic Research Delft, The Netherlands
[29] Takikawa, K.; Yamada, F.; Matsumoto, K., Internal characteristics and numerical analysis of plunging breaker on a slope, Coastal eng, 31, 143-161, (1997)
[30] Ting, F.C.; Kirby, J.T., Observation of undertow and turbulence in a laboratory surf zone, Coastal eng, 24, 51-80, (1994)
[31] Ting, F.C.; Kirby, J.T., Dynamics of surf zone turbulence in a spilling breaker, Coastal eng, 27, 131-160, (1996)
[32] Yamada, F.; Takikawa, K., Models with Reynolds equation based energy dissipation for plunging breakers on a uniform slope, Coastal eng J, 41, 3 & 4, 247-267, (1999)
[33] Youngs DL. Time-dependent multi-material flow with large fluid distortion. In: Numerical methods for fluid dynamics: proceedings of a first conference. Reading, UK; 1982. p. 273-285.
[34] You T. Study of the wave transformation and breaking on the slope and longshore currents. Ph.D. Dissertation of Tianjin University; 2004.
[35] Zhang, Q.; Liu, P.L.-F., A numerical study of swash flows generated by bores, Coastal eng, 55, 1113-1134, (2008)
[36] Zhou, J.G.; Stansby, P.K., An arbitrary lagrangian – eulerian model with non-hydrostatic pressure for shallow water flows, Comput methods appl mech eng, 178, 199-214, (1999) · Zbl 0967.76065
[37] Zijlema, M.; Stelling, G.S., Efficient computation of surf zone waves using the nonlinear shallow water equations with non-hydrostatic pressure, Coastal eng, 55, 780-790, (2008)
This reference list is based on information provided by the publisher or from digital mathematics libraries. Its items are heuristically matched to zbMATH identifiers and may contain data conversion errors. It attempts to reflect the references listed in the original paper as accurately as possible without claiming the completeness or perfect precision of the matching.